Granite care or careless?
I have been asked over the years by my customers and friends, "How do I take care of my Granite counter tops, and what should I use to clean them"?
Always wanting to error on the "Safe side" I would tell everyone to just use mild dish soap and water, knowing that would or could not hurt the beauty of the natural stone.
Just recently, I was challenged on this school of thought, so I thought I would do some research on this subject for you all who care about their Granite.
I looked at several web sites of Stone suppliers and installers from around the country, I asked my installer Amanzi Granite and also searched the "Fine Home Building" web site and the "DIY Network" site.
Here is the simple conclusion I came up with; Clean up generally needs just warm water and a mild dish soap.
Most general purpose cleaners can etch or damage the stone and degrade the sealer, therefore removing protective properties and becoming susceptible to stains.
Specially designed cleaners for natural stone will also not break down the protective sealer. In fact, some cleaners contain protective properties which reinforce the sealer and prolong stain resistance.
For heavier cleaning jobs, using cleaners formulated for stone will effectively remove tough grime and messes yet be gentle on the surface.
Dulled or lightly scratched areas can be restored by using automotive rubbing compound and waxing with liquid wax. Some fabricators recommend giving the entire surface area a coat of an automotive type paste wax from time to time to help maintain appearance, but this is usually not needed.
The main problem with granite is that oils that can be absorbed and discolor the stone. If the surface appears to be discolored, a poultice is available for lifting oil stains.
If it is a color stain, a light bleach solution can be used, or even Clorox Clean Up, but remember that cleaning methods must be used consistently. Do not use bleach today, and then use an ammonia based product tomorrow.
Denatured alcohol will remove most adhesives and residue, and will not harm the finish, but acetone and lacquer thinner will damage the surface.
Scouring powders, abrasive cleaners and steel wool pads will scratch and dull the finish.
Cleaning products containing lemon, vinegar or other acids may etch the stone - this includes many common liquid cleaners such as Windex.
Never allow acidic foods such as lemons, vinegar (including salad dressings) or pineapple juice to remain on the surface of the counter top. They will stain and may etch the stone.
Use only sealers and cleaning products designed specifically for natural stone.
Here are a few brief descriptions of the various types of common natural stone used in your home.
STONE DESCRIPTIONS
Types of Natural Stone
Granite - is the hardest of the stones. Even the softest granite is harder than any limestone, marble or slate. Its durability and resistance to heat and acids used in cooking (lemon juice, vinegar) make kitchen countertops the number one residential use for granite. Granite scores high from a sanitary standpoint – it resists such bacteria as salmonella. Among other granite uses are bar tops, table tops, center islands, outdoor kitchens and floors.
Marble - is a highly decorative stone and more porous than granite. It is mainly used because of its veining and color. Common choices are fireplace surrounds, tub surrounds, vanity tops and table tops.
Limestone - is a softer stone and has the least amount of veining. It is popular among those people looking for a flat, matte finish. Limestone can be used for fireplace surrounds as well as vanity tops.
Slate - is a hard stone that ranks high in abrasion resistance. Main uses are for flooring and such bathroom applications as shower stalls, floors and walls.
Onyx - is similar to alabaster and marble. It’s wonderfully translucent but very, very soft. It’s not for walking surfaces but is great for walls and in the bath.
Soapstone - is often used for kitchen countertops. It acquires a patina with age and requires regular oiling for maintenance. It is very uniform in appearance.
Travertine - is a type of limestone. It is known for its many holes that are formed from sulfur bubbles eating away at the stone as it is formed. The holes can be filled with synthetic resins and cements or left in its natural state. Travertine can be polished or left in its natural matte finish and is often used for flooring, fireplace surrounds, table tops and bathroom applications.
The Moral of the story?
"Warm water and soap will do the job, but you can purchase approved cleaning products. It's your choice! What a beautiful thing, living in America where we can choose!
your friend Scott
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Thursday, July 22, 2010
Groovy paint trick
Have you ever been in the middle of rolling out your walls or cutting in, when you find you need to run for a while. Your now left with the task of "Cleaning" the roller cover and brush before you leave. Only to come back to it in a few hours or the next day, to start the process all over again.
I found a great "Short cut" to this cleaning chore. Put your roller cover and or paint brush inside a Zip Lock bag or wrap it in Saran Wrap and "pop it into the Freezer"!!! That's it, you can come back even a YEAR later, let it though out and your back at painting!!!
If you have a home with a multitude of wall colors, you can even mark the Zip Lock bag by room and just keep it frozen for those little touch up's we always have!! Takes just about 15 min to thaw and you can start touching up. There is usually enough paint left in the roller cover to hit a few small spots. Cool hu?
That's it, I think it's kinda Groovy!!
Scott
I found a great "Short cut" to this cleaning chore. Put your roller cover and or paint brush inside a Zip Lock bag or wrap it in Saran Wrap and "pop it into the Freezer"!!! That's it, you can come back even a YEAR later, let it though out and your back at painting!!!
If you have a home with a multitude of wall colors, you can even mark the Zip Lock bag by room and just keep it frozen for those little touch up's we always have!! Takes just about 15 min to thaw and you can start touching up. There is usually enough paint left in the roller cover to hit a few small spots. Cool hu?
That's it, I think it's kinda Groovy!!
Scott
Wednesday, June 09, 2010
Don't tread on me..or my shirt...
I came home to a mess of oil on my driveway the other day. I hate oil on my driveway and I am not too excited about tire marks either, spending hours pressure spraying all the encrusted clay and black rubber marks left behind. Next to a root canal, this sucks.
Best bet: Storing a can of Brake Parts Cleaner in your garage which I then begin to spray on the remnants of this alien attack- as no one in my home has any idea where the oil came from, including my three teen aged drivers and their friends with old leaky cars. Must of been ET!
It worked like magic. I just sprayed it on the oil drips and spots, then it pulled a David Blaine, and disappeared before my eyes. Like a kid with a new Christmas toy, I was in search of any random stain on my driveway. Old or new, they just disappeared!
Taking it a step further, I remembered that great Armani shirt in my closet, sporting a stellar Quarter Pounder with Cheese stain on the front. You know the stain, we all have at least one in our closet. I hit it once with my new friend, let it dry for a few minutes, popped it in the Maytag and the evidence of my drive thru lunch was gone. I was amazed. All the Tide pens in the world couldn't touch this, but brake cleaner... who knew?
I hope every guy out their has an oil spot or two to remove from his concrete driveway just so you can see this stuff in action. If not, borrow a neighbors stain, or just make one yourself.
Don't forget, it works great for brake parts too!
your friend Scott
I came home to a mess of oil on my driveway the other day. I hate oil on my driveway and I am not too excited about tire marks either, spending hours pressure spraying all the encrusted clay and black rubber marks left behind. Next to a root canal, this sucks.
Best bet: Storing a can of Brake Parts Cleaner in your garage which I then begin to spray on the remnants of this alien attack- as no one in my home has any idea where the oil came from, including my three teen aged drivers and their friends with old leaky cars. Must of been ET!
It worked like magic. I just sprayed it on the oil drips and spots, then it pulled a David Blaine, and disappeared before my eyes. Like a kid with a new Christmas toy, I was in search of any random stain on my driveway. Old or new, they just disappeared!
Taking it a step further, I remembered that great Armani shirt in my closet, sporting a stellar Quarter Pounder with Cheese stain on the front. You know the stain, we all have at least one in our closet. I hit it once with my new friend, let it dry for a few minutes, popped it in the Maytag and the evidence of my drive thru lunch was gone. I was amazed. All the Tide pens in the world couldn't touch this, but brake cleaner... who knew?
I hope every guy out their has an oil spot or two to remove from his concrete driveway just so you can see this stuff in action. If not, borrow a neighbors stain, or just make one yourself.
Don't forget, it works great for brake parts too!
your friend Scott
Sunday, November 05, 2006
I HATE TO PAINT
In my experience of building homes, I have noticed a lot of owners have taken on the task of re-painting their new home. In many cases, the original paint used is not yet dry and the color and finish is being changed.
I have seen great work; Almost Picasso like and work that looks as if I did it holding a brush in my mouth, eyes a fixed on the Panthers game, the bag of Cheetos and my beer!
I have tips on making your painting experience better with professional results.
My wife has had me re-paint every home, apartment and town home we have owned over the past 20 years. I have much experience at what to do and what not to do.
Being a builder, I watch the real guys do that thing they do, so I just copy them. I have found that by taking short cuts just ends up being a long cut.
Are you a Preppy?
My least favorite part of the process is the Prep work. The endless hours of taping, papering and laying out the plastic. We spend most of our time prepping the room, keeping the paint off the floors, furniture, cat or dog. This is the most important part of the paint job. I have tried to save time and it ends up costing me more time with the clean up plus getting yelled at by you know who.
First use the right products. Spend the extra buck and buy the Blue or Green 3M painters tape in a variety of widths to do the job. Next get some 1 mil painters plastic for the furniture and dog. Use 4 or 6 mil for the floors. Canvas drop clothes are great if you own them already, however very pricey. Next, spend the money on good brushes and rollers. If you want your home to look like the inside of a cardboard box, buy that 12 pack of nylon brushes for $6.99.
Roll one for me!
Assuming that walls and trim are well prepped, you can start to paint.
Start with the "Cut in brush" This is the one with the angle brush hairs. Go all around the window and door casings, base and crown moldings first. Once cut-in is finished with two coats, start the roller process.
When rolling out your walls, use the "N" pattern. Just make a giant N on the wall and then go back filling it in. This will use just the right amount of paint. Don't keep going over the wet paint until it is dry. This will actually pull paint off the wall and place it back on the roller leaving those paint boogers behind. It is much better to come back once the paint has flashed off and touch it up later.
A Clean Brush is a Happy Brush
It's not a bad idea to periodically clean out your brush while you are painting. Use the toothed brush cleaner with warm water and some dish soap if you like. I then go outside and shake it out hard to remove all water. This only takes a minute and will keep your brush lasting along time. This works for roller too!
If using oil based paints, just use the recommend thinner instead of water and soap.
If you need to take a long break, or want to come back the next day, here is the lazy step for your roller and brush.
Wrap them up in a plastic sandwich wrap, aluminum foil or a combo of either. Place them in the freezer...yep the freezer! Believe it or not this will keep for a long time. Just let them thaw out and Whallah, instant wet brush and roller ready to pick up where you left off. Pretty cool, huh?
When changing the finish from flat to gloss or semi-gloss, remember the higher the sheen the more imperfections, brush strokes and roller marks will be seen. Also, touch ups will be difficult. When doing a touch-up with a glossy paint you will need to paint the entire wall or you will see the touched up area.
Its Story time
How to store your paints: To keep your paints from freezing or drying out, keep in the original can, keeping the lid clean to shut tight, utilizing cellophane on top of the paint before placing the lid on. This will act as a sealer and help with the shelf life. If you don't use this method, just mix or shake your can (Paint can that is) every once in a while to keep it mixed up.
Now you can sit back and enjoy your new paint job while eating a piece of cake. Did I mention cake? Check the link for my favorite cakes!
Your friend,
Scott
In my experience of building homes, I have noticed a lot of owners have taken on the task of re-painting their new home. In many cases, the original paint used is not yet dry and the color and finish is being changed.
I have seen great work; Almost Picasso like and work that looks as if I did it holding a brush in my mouth, eyes a fixed on the Panthers game, the bag of Cheetos and my beer!
I have tips on making your painting experience better with professional results.
My wife has had me re-paint every home, apartment and town home we have owned over the past 20 years. I have much experience at what to do and what not to do.
Being a builder, I watch the real guys do that thing they do, so I just copy them. I have found that by taking short cuts just ends up being a long cut.
Are you a Preppy?
My least favorite part of the process is the Prep work. The endless hours of taping, papering and laying out the plastic. We spend most of our time prepping the room, keeping the paint off the floors, furniture, cat or dog. This is the most important part of the paint job. I have tried to save time and it ends up costing me more time with the clean up plus getting yelled at by you know who.
First use the right products. Spend the extra buck and buy the Blue or Green 3M painters tape in a variety of widths to do the job. Next get some 1 mil painters plastic for the furniture and dog. Use 4 or 6 mil for the floors. Canvas drop clothes are great if you own them already, however very pricey. Next, spend the money on good brushes and rollers. If you want your home to look like the inside of a cardboard box, buy that 12 pack of nylon brushes for $6.99.
Roll one for me!
Assuming that walls and trim are well prepped, you can start to paint.
Start with the "Cut in brush" This is the one with the angle brush hairs. Go all around the window and door casings, base and crown moldings first. Once cut-in is finished with two coats, start the roller process.
When rolling out your walls, use the "N" pattern. Just make a giant N on the wall and then go back filling it in. This will use just the right amount of paint. Don't keep going over the wet paint until it is dry. This will actually pull paint off the wall and place it back on the roller leaving those paint boogers behind. It is much better to come back once the paint has flashed off and touch it up later.
A Clean Brush is a Happy Brush
It's not a bad idea to periodically clean out your brush while you are painting. Use the toothed brush cleaner with warm water and some dish soap if you like. I then go outside and shake it out hard to remove all water. This only takes a minute and will keep your brush lasting along time. This works for roller too!
If using oil based paints, just use the recommend thinner instead of water and soap.
If you need to take a long break, or want to come back the next day, here is the lazy step for your roller and brush.
Wrap them up in a plastic sandwich wrap, aluminum foil or a combo of either. Place them in the freezer...yep the freezer! Believe it or not this will keep for a long time. Just let them thaw out and Whallah, instant wet brush and roller ready to pick up where you left off. Pretty cool, huh?
When changing the finish from flat to gloss or semi-gloss, remember the higher the sheen the more imperfections, brush strokes and roller marks will be seen. Also, touch ups will be difficult. When doing a touch-up with a glossy paint you will need to paint the entire wall or you will see the touched up area.
Its Story time
How to store your paints: To keep your paints from freezing or drying out, keep in the original can, keeping the lid clean to shut tight, utilizing cellophane on top of the paint before placing the lid on. This will act as a sealer and help with the shelf life. If you don't use this method, just mix or shake your can (Paint can that is) every once in a while to keep it mixed up.
Now you can sit back and enjoy your new paint job while eating a piece of cake. Did I mention cake? Check the link for my favorite cakes!
Your friend,
Scott
Thursday, October 26, 2006
Got Wood Floors?
Having wood flooring is a great thing! So I'm here to help you keep your wood floors looking fabulous!
In the twenty some years I have been in construction, I have installed thousands of square feet of hardwood flooring of all types and species in the known world...almost. I have installed Purple Heartwood, Tiger Wood (not the golfer) Zebra Wood, Hickory, Bamboo, Maple, Ebony, Fur, Pine, Oak of all colors and grades, well you get the picture.
So, I have had to learn and retain lots of information about wood flooring. Some useful, some not. What I want to do is impart some of this learned wisdom to you so you can take care of this investment you walk and play on every day.
I have provided some basic dos and don't s of hardwood floor care and maintenance tips to keep them looking great for a long time.
Doing some more research off the web, talking to my flooring contractors Andy & Patrick Cox of Cox Hardwood Flooring and my basic knowledge is where this information is derived from, so here goes.
BASIC DO'S
Do: Invite your Project Manager over to your house for a beer on your hardwood floors.
Do: Place Felt Protector pads on ALL furniture legs that sit on wood flooring
Do: Place walk off mats and area rugs in high traffic areas (make sure they stay dry and are cleaned underneath often). Sand is the enemy under a door mat as well as water and the Taliban.
Do: Perform routine maintenance as recommended by manufacturer, this should include sweeping, vacuuming and/or dust mopping to remove dirt and grit. Keep this as a regularly scheduled event, and stick to it. Always perform this process before and after a major event that involves a high volume of traffic on the floor.
Do: Keep high heel shoes in good repairs, (This means all you guys in drag too) as well as keeping your pets nails trimmed on a regular bases.
Now the DON'T S
Do Not: Use WET mops, a damp mopping is OK but stay away from lots of water. This can cause the floors to crown or cup. If this happens, just let it dry and the floors will come back.
Do Not: Use ammonia or chemicals that contain ammonia, this can strip and dull the finish big time.
Do Not: Use dust cleaners! This is bad JuJu. If you are in stocking feet or your kids are, you WILL FALL and falling is bad.
Do Not: Track in dirt or sand, clean immediately.
Do Not: Use cleaning products not designed for hardwood flooring.
Do Not: Wax a urethane finish- NEVER EVER EVER!
Wood floors are NOT impervious to the day to day grit, food, spills, and water.
Preventive maintenance like area rugs, floor protectors (on ALL furniture on your wood floors), and routine maintenance with proper hardwood floor cleaner should always be exercised. Improper products can contribute to additional wear, may VOID your warranty, and cause failure when re- coating.
Here is a link to find great floor care products.
http://www.safehomeproducts.com/shp2/es/bona_kemi.asp
OK, now I'm off the help an old lady cross the street and rescue a puppy from a burning building.
your friend Scott
Having wood flooring is a great thing! So I'm here to help you keep your wood floors looking fabulous!
In the twenty some years I have been in construction, I have installed thousands of square feet of hardwood flooring of all types and species in the known world...almost. I have installed Purple Heartwood, Tiger Wood (not the golfer) Zebra Wood, Hickory, Bamboo, Maple, Ebony, Fur, Pine, Oak of all colors and grades, well you get the picture.
So, I have had to learn and retain lots of information about wood flooring. Some useful, some not. What I want to do is impart some of this learned wisdom to you so you can take care of this investment you walk and play on every day.
I have provided some basic dos and don't s of hardwood floor care and maintenance tips to keep them looking great for a long time.
Doing some more research off the web, talking to my flooring contractors Andy & Patrick Cox of Cox Hardwood Flooring and my basic knowledge is where this information is derived from, so here goes.
BASIC DO'S
Do: Invite your Project Manager over to your house for a beer on your hardwood floors.
Do: Place Felt Protector pads on ALL furniture legs that sit on wood flooring
Do: Place walk off mats and area rugs in high traffic areas (make sure they stay dry and are cleaned underneath often). Sand is the enemy under a door mat as well as water and the Taliban.
Do: Perform routine maintenance as recommended by manufacturer, this should include sweeping, vacuuming and/or dust mopping to remove dirt and grit. Keep this as a regularly scheduled event, and stick to it. Always perform this process before and after a major event that involves a high volume of traffic on the floor.
Do: Keep high heel shoes in good repairs, (This means all you guys in drag too) as well as keeping your pets nails trimmed on a regular bases.
Now the DON'T S
Do Not: Use WET mops, a damp mopping is OK but stay away from lots of water. This can cause the floors to crown or cup. If this happens, just let it dry and the floors will come back.
Do Not: Use ammonia or chemicals that contain ammonia, this can strip and dull the finish big time.
Do Not: Use dust cleaners! This is bad JuJu. If you are in stocking feet or your kids are, you WILL FALL and falling is bad.
Do Not: Track in dirt or sand, clean immediately.
Do Not: Use cleaning products not designed for hardwood flooring.
Do Not: Wax a urethane finish- NEVER EVER EVER!
Wood floors are NOT impervious to the day to day grit, food, spills, and water.
Preventive maintenance like area rugs, floor protectors (on ALL furniture on your wood floors), and routine maintenance with proper hardwood floor cleaner should always be exercised. Improper products can contribute to additional wear, may VOID your warranty, and cause failure when re- coating.
Here is a link to find great floor care products.
http://www.safehomeproducts.com/shp2/es/bona_kemi.asp
OK, now I'm off the help an old lady cross the street and rescue a puppy from a burning building.
your friend Scott
Monday, October 16, 2006
My friend Tony
Many of us can pin point the exact time and place when President Kennedy was shot, the Challenger exploded, or when 911 took place. Now you can add one more to the list.
Today. I heard Tony Powers passed away.
How does one count a loss so great. This morning I woke to the news of my friend Tony's passing. No news one wants to hear early on a Monday morning. For those who did not have the pleasure to meet or know this great man, father, businessman and friend, Tony was a man of deep faith and conviction. He always strove to do the right thing at any cost, looking to help a friend, business associate or even a one-time unemployed project manager(myself) whom he never met.
To those living in a home built in this area of North Carolina, Tony was the likely source of your lumber, doors and millwork. Tony was a vital link to many builders and project managers.
I only knew Tony a short while however, in spending time with him, I knew he was a great and humble man. Today Heaven is better off and we are feeling this great loss here on earth. I can just hear him talking to the Lord; "Hardwood floors would look great in this room, and you should see the trim I can get my hands on to finish this place!"
Tony was a man who knew where he came from and Whom he believed in, but he was grounded here, building relationships that will last an eternity.
This evening my wife and I attended Tony's visitation, and what we experienced was amazing. Standing in a line for almost an hour and a half just to pay our respects to Tony's family. Lisa and I watched as hundreds of people from all walks of life came to pay tribute to this fine man.
What a legacy he has left behind.
This is my blog for the evening.
your friend Scott
Many of us can pin point the exact time and place when President Kennedy was shot, the Challenger exploded, or when 911 took place. Now you can add one more to the list.
Today. I heard Tony Powers passed away.
How does one count a loss so great. This morning I woke to the news of my friend Tony's passing. No news one wants to hear early on a Monday morning. For those who did not have the pleasure to meet or know this great man, father, businessman and friend, Tony was a man of deep faith and conviction. He always strove to do the right thing at any cost, looking to help a friend, business associate or even a one-time unemployed project manager(myself) whom he never met.
To those living in a home built in this area of North Carolina, Tony was the likely source of your lumber, doors and millwork. Tony was a vital link to many builders and project managers.
I only knew Tony a short while however, in spending time with him, I knew he was a great and humble man. Today Heaven is better off and we are feeling this great loss here on earth. I can just hear him talking to the Lord; "Hardwood floors would look great in this room, and you should see the trim I can get my hands on to finish this place!"
Tony was a man who knew where he came from and Whom he believed in, but he was grounded here, building relationships that will last an eternity.
This evening my wife and I attended Tony's visitation, and what we experienced was amazing. Standing in a line for almost an hour and a half just to pay our respects to Tony's family. Lisa and I watched as hundreds of people from all walks of life came to pay tribute to this fine man.
What a legacy he has left behind.
This is my blog for the evening.
your friend Scott
Saturday, October 14, 2006
Autumn tips for your home. Well as the weather starts to change and the cooler and colder temperatures start to set in there are some things you can do to prep for the fall and winter around your new home.
I have a list of items you may find helpful and won't take up too much of your time over the next several weeks. Sorry guys, just trying to help I know the last thing you need is another list from a 3rd party. But here goes any way. :>)
1. If you have a home that sits on a crawl space foundation, walk around and close your crawl space vents, this will help keep your home warmer by keeping the colder air out.
2. Check the drain line(s) coming out of the foundation/and or the soffit from the attic that is connected to the furnace in your crawl space/ and or attic. This is a condensate line which may be hooked up to a condensate pump or the pan at the bottom of the furnace. Make sure this line is not clogged or blocked. If it is blocked, just detach it and run a hose through it. A clogged condensate line can cause some major water dammage to your home. Keep an eye on this. When running your AC during the summer, this line gets a good work out.
3. Check your Positive foundation drain located at the lowest point in your crawl space and should be running out to "daylight"in you lawn. This is usually a Black corrugated pipe 6" in diameter and it's purpose is to take water away from your foundation in case water has found it's way in. This can become clogged with leaves, grass clippings or even something building a nest in them. If they are clogged or blocked, clean them out. If you had a major leak or water infiltration to you crawl, this is the only way the water can drain from your crawl to keep you from having a swimming pool under your home.
4. Check your "French or Foundation" drain which is located at the lowest points of your grade or lawn. You may find more than one pipe and they should be running out to "Daylight" in you lawn. They like the Positive drain are usually Black corrugated pipe 6" in diameter and the purpose is to take water away from the outside of the foundation. They too can become clogged with leaves, grass clippings or even something building a nest in them. If they are clogged or blocked, clean them out.
5. Gutters and downspouts can fill with leaves and debris from winds and storms. Make sure after all the Autumn leaves have fallen, they get cleaned out. Remember that the gutters job is to take all that water coming off your roof and move it to a downspout(s) to get the water far away from your foundation. Water is the enemy of a homes exterior.
6. Check the outside of the windows for caulking that may have deteriorated over time. Caulking is to prevent air infiltration as well water. Caulk is an maintained item and should be repaired as required.
7. Don't forget to water you plantings before winter sets in. Your trees, shrubs and plants need a good dose of the old H20 before the freeze sets in. Also, mulch around the beds of your trees to keep the moister in for the winter. This will help them for the Spring time bloom.
8. One more thing; Daylight savings time is coming soon and is a great prompter for all to change the batteries in your smoke detectors and is a good time to check all your furnace filter as well.
Well, that's all I have for now. I will Blog you all again soon with more ideas for your home as they pop in my twisted little head.
Have fun playing in the yard and in your crawl space, and watch out for the spiders!!!!!
Your friend Scott
I have a list of items you may find helpful and won't take up too much of your time over the next several weeks. Sorry guys, just trying to help I know the last thing you need is another list from a 3rd party. But here goes any way. :>)
1. If you have a home that sits on a crawl space foundation, walk around and close your crawl space vents, this will help keep your home warmer by keeping the colder air out.
2. Check the drain line(s) coming out of the foundation/and or the soffit from the attic that is connected to the furnace in your crawl space/ and or attic. This is a condensate line which may be hooked up to a condensate pump or the pan at the bottom of the furnace. Make sure this line is not clogged or blocked. If it is blocked, just detach it and run a hose through it. A clogged condensate line can cause some major water dammage to your home. Keep an eye on this. When running your AC during the summer, this line gets a good work out.
3. Check your Positive foundation drain located at the lowest point in your crawl space and should be running out to "daylight"in you lawn. This is usually a Black corrugated pipe 6" in diameter and it's purpose is to take water away from your foundation in case water has found it's way in. This can become clogged with leaves, grass clippings or even something building a nest in them. If they are clogged or blocked, clean them out. If you had a major leak or water infiltration to you crawl, this is the only way the water can drain from your crawl to keep you from having a swimming pool under your home.
4. Check your "French or Foundation" drain which is located at the lowest points of your grade or lawn. You may find more than one pipe and they should be running out to "Daylight" in you lawn. They like the Positive drain are usually Black corrugated pipe 6" in diameter and the purpose is to take water away from the outside of the foundation. They too can become clogged with leaves, grass clippings or even something building a nest in them. If they are clogged or blocked, clean them out.
5. Gutters and downspouts can fill with leaves and debris from winds and storms. Make sure after all the Autumn leaves have fallen, they get cleaned out. Remember that the gutters job is to take all that water coming off your roof and move it to a downspout(s) to get the water far away from your foundation. Water is the enemy of a homes exterior.
6. Check the outside of the windows for caulking that may have deteriorated over time. Caulking is to prevent air infiltration as well water. Caulk is an maintained item and should be repaired as required.
7. Don't forget to water you plantings before winter sets in. Your trees, shrubs and plants need a good dose of the old H20 before the freeze sets in. Also, mulch around the beds of your trees to keep the moister in for the winter. This will help them for the Spring time bloom.
8. One more thing; Daylight savings time is coming soon and is a great prompter for all to change the batteries in your smoke detectors and is a good time to check all your furnace filter as well.
Well, that's all I have for now. I will Blog you all again soon with more ideas for your home as they pop in my twisted little head.
Have fun playing in the yard and in your crawl space, and watch out for the spiders!!!!!
Your friend Scott
Thursday, October 12, 2006
Well, Fall is upon us in North Carolina and time to get outside for that autumn yard work. I have enclosed some tips for you to help you get that new yard looking like a great lawn next spring. This is my research along with a lot of trial and error over the years. I hope this will be of help to all of you and perhaps you can avoid some of the mistakes I have made over the years trying to get my lawn looking great.
Aerate your yard. I recommend renting a good unit from Home Depot or a rental shop that has yard equipment. The rental is about $60 for 24 hours. (I usually go in on this with 4 or 5 of the guys on my block to spread the cost and it only takes 45 min to an hour to do this any way.)
I recommend using Lime to neutralize our acidic soil and an 18-24-12 fertilizer. This has a good amount of Nitrogen in it and if used properly with our acetic soil, you will have great results. You will do this again in December just around Christmas. Rule of thumb; it is better to use less than too much, remember December!
Fescue, Fescue, Fescue. This is a great seed, it loves cool nights and warm days. That is why September and October are great months to do this. You only want to over seed in the fall and perhaps in the early spring. Hot weather will kill the seed, plus you will have to water all the time. If you have some dry patchy areas, break it up with a rake and seed well, then cover with some straw. The straw will help keep the soil wet and keep the birds from eating the seed.
I will Blog again in the spring to help you battle the crab grass and weeds getting you closer to that awesome looking lawn!
Have fun in the yard.
your friend Scott
Aerate your yard. I recommend renting a good unit from Home Depot or a rental shop that has yard equipment. The rental is about $60 for 24 hours. (I usually go in on this with 4 or 5 of the guys on my block to spread the cost and it only takes 45 min to an hour to do this any way.)
I recommend using Lime to neutralize our acidic soil and an 18-24-12 fertilizer. This has a good amount of Nitrogen in it and if used properly with our acetic soil, you will have great results. You will do this again in December just around Christmas. Rule of thumb; it is better to use less than too much, remember December!
Fescue, Fescue, Fescue. This is a great seed, it loves cool nights and warm days. That is why September and October are great months to do this. You only want to over seed in the fall and perhaps in the early spring. Hot weather will kill the seed, plus you will have to water all the time. If you have some dry patchy areas, break it up with a rake and seed well, then cover with some straw. The straw will help keep the soil wet and keep the birds from eating the seed.
I will Blog again in the spring to help you battle the crab grass and weeds getting you closer to that awesome looking lawn!
Have fun in the yard.
your friend Scott
Wednesday, October 11, 2006
Hello; well this is my first post of my first blog. My intent for this is to give practical information and or helpful tips to my customers or in fact any other builders customers who have built a home. When I glean helpful information for homeowners from a trade publication, web site or any where else, I will post it. When I come across an idea or technology that may help another builder or project manager, I will post it.
I am always looking to make the "process" of construction easier for the customer, trade partners and of course the builder. So when I stumble across info, I'll pass it along.
I will be creating a "e-news or blog letter" for my customers on everything from lawn care tips to general home maintenance ideas so they can keep their new home looking great for years to come.
I hope this becomes a useful tool, if not well...I tried.
Scott
I am always looking to make the "process" of construction easier for the customer, trade partners and of course the builder. So when I stumble across info, I'll pass it along.
I will be creating a "e-news or blog letter" for my customers on everything from lawn care tips to general home maintenance ideas so they can keep their new home looking great for years to come.
I hope this becomes a useful tool, if not well...I tried.
Scott
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